A great suit isn’t just about fabric and stitching—it’s about presence. It’s about stepping into a room and knowing you look sharp, polished, and completely at ease. But here’s the thing: even the finest fabric in the world won’t save a poorly tailored suit. That’s why working with the right tailor is crucial.
If you’ve never had a custom suit made before, the process can feel a bit like learning a new language. Lapels, canvassing, break, drape—it’s a lot. But don’t worry. This guide will walk you through everything, from finding a tailor to making sure your suit fits like a second skin.
First Things First: Finding the Right Tailor
Not all tailors are created equal. Some specialize in ultra-modern, slim-fit designs, while others stick to more traditional cuts. Some work magic with hand-stitched detailing, while others lean heavily on machines.
So, how do you know if you’ve got a good one?
- Reputation matters – Word of mouth is gold. If a well-dressed friend swears by their tailor, that’s a strong lead. Otherwise, online reviews (especially with photos) can help weed out the mediocre ones.
- Experience is key – A tailor with decades under their belt has seen it all—different body types, different fabrics, different quirks in fit.
- Look at their work – A tailor’s previous creations should speak for themselves. If they’re hesitant to show samples, that’s a red flag.
- Communication is everything – You want a tailor who listens. Someone who understands that your “slim fit” might not be the same as their “slim fit.”
Pro Tip:
If your tailor tells you, “This is just how it’s done,” without explaining why, run. A good tailor should educate, not dictate.
The First Fitting: Speak Up or Forever Hold Your Creases
Alright, you’ve found your tailor. Now comes the fun part—the first fitting. This is where measurements happen, and you get to discuss how you want your suit to look and feel.
Here’s where a lot of guys make a mistake: they just nod along. They assume the tailor knows best. And sure, they do—technically. But no tailor can read your mind. If you want your jacket a little shorter, your trousers a little roomier, or your shoulders structured just so, say it.
A few things to think about during this fitting:
- The Fit: Do you want something sharp and structured or relaxed and comfortable?
- The Break: How much of your shoe do you want your trousers to cover? No break? A slight break? A full break?
- The Silhouette: Classic, modern, or ultra-slim? Each has a different vibe.
- The Lapels: Wide for a bold, old-school look, or slim for a modern edge?
- The Details: Functional sleeve buttons, contrast stitching, peak vs. notch lapels—these small things can make a huge difference.
A Quick Reality Check:
No matter how good your tailor is, your first fitting suit won’t be perfect. There will be tweaks. That’s part of the process.
The Second Fitting: Tweaking, Adjusting, Perfecting
The second fitting is where your suit starts to feel like yours. The tailor has made the adjustments, and now it’s time to fine-tune.
This is when you should really focus on:
- Comfort – Move around. Sit, stretch, roll your shoulders. A great suit should feel like a second skin, not a straitjacket.
- Jacket Length – Your jacket should cover your seat but not swallow you whole.
- Trousers Fit – No bunching, no sagging. They should sit clean and smooth against your frame.
- Arm Mobility – If you can’t comfortably lift your arms, something’s off.
A Note on Patience:
Some suits need a third fitting. And that’s fine. This isn’t fast fashion—it’s about getting things right.
What About the Extras? (Or, The Stuff That Separates a Good Suit from a Great One)
A custom suit is all about the details. Want your monogram inside the jacket? Go for it. Prefer working cuff buttons? Absolutely. Thinking about a bold lining that nobody will see except you? That’s the magic of tailoring.
Here are a few extras that can elevate your suit from “nice” to “next-level”:
- Surgeon’s Cuffs – Functional sleeve buttons that let you roll up your suit jacket (flexing optional).
- Handmade Buttonholes – A small detail, but it screams quality.
- Half-Canvassed or Fully Canvassed Construction – This determines how your jacket drapes over your body. Fully canvassed is the gold standard.
- Custom Linings – Because why should your suit be boring on the inside?
- Pick Stitching – A subtle, handmade stitch along the lapel that adds an old-school elegance.
A Thought on Trends vs. Timelessness:
Yes, ultra-slim lapels and cropped jackets are everywhere today. But will they still look good in five years? A classic, well-fitted suit will always be in style.
Final Fitting: The Moment of Truth
By now, your suit should be nearly perfect. But don’t rush through this last step.
- Check the shoulders – They should sit cleanly, with no divots or pulling.
- Look at the back – No excess fabric pooling around your lower back.
- Button the jacket – Does it close smoothly without pulling?
- Check the trouser break again – Too much and you’ll look sloppy, too little and it might feel unfinished.
If something feels off—even slightly—bring it up. Your tailor would rather make one last adjustment than have you walk away less than thrilled.
Final Thoughts: The Confidence Factor
A well-tailored suit does more than make you look good—it makes you feel good. It’s like armor. It’s a confidence boost. And that’s why it’s worth every bit of time, effort, and money.
For those in the Cleveland-Akron area looking for men’s custom suits that fit like they were made just for you (because they were), Davide Cotugno Executive Tailors delivers unmatched craftsmanship and personalized service. Whether you want a boardroom-ready power suit or a timeless wedding ensemble, they’ll ensure your suit looks and feels perfect.
So next time you walk into a tailor’s shop, don’t just go through the motions. Ask questions. Speak up. Make it yours.
Because a perfect suit isn’t just about fit—it’s about you.
